Ishtabach
Menu
**
$$
A Syrian hot pocket that is love or hate. Sadly, I am leaning towards the latter.
Ishtabach – a name that plays on the liturgical opening to the morning prayer – has a bit of an identity crisis with some less than appealing qualities and some redemptive parts too. Let us start with what they do.
The menu is simple and not confusing. Ishtabach specializes in one item called a Shamburak – a Syrian-Kurdish dish that is a large hot pocket like dough that is filled with 6 varieties of seasoned meet. Ranging from brisket to assado beef ribs to spicy veal and lamb, you choose how you want your pastry filled. Each choice has mashed potatoe, Indian spices, fried onions and chimichurri (heavy on the cilantro). It is then put into a large rotating fire oven (taboon) until the dough is crispy and the meat is warmed. It is served with some spicy sauces of your choice.
Ishtabach gets some things right: They have a simple menu. They know what they do and they stick with it. It is not too pricey and indeed can fill you up. The service is excellent and they know their craft.
Sadly, what they get wrong is more than what they get right: I retried there of the meats, and besides the cut, could not differentiate the tastes. Too much chimichurri can negate the flavors of the beef itself. The location is nice, but not as welcoming for a group of 3-5 people. Further, the location can be cleaned up a bit.
I would argue that like its name, Ishtabach has a bit of an identity crisis. Is this the Syrian Mifgash Hashech with meat? Is it a place for cabbies and locals to pop by for a snack? Or is it a culinary experience?
For me, Ishtabach was like Times Square on New Year’s Eve. I am glad I did it once, added it to my list of accomplishments and achievements and am ready for new experiences. That is what I would recommend. Try it once. If you like, go back as desired. It is NOT a must on any trip. My 3 shekels!
