Duvshanit

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Plucked from the tree directly to your cake.

In David Grossman’s novel, See Under: Love, the story is told of Momik, an only child born to holocaust survivors who immigrate to Israel and bring their painful baggage with them as they start over again. The first page of the book is thick and can be unpacked like a page of Talmud.

It talks about a cafe in the early 50’s where Bella is working and looking after little Momik when he is done with school.

If you wanted to see what this cafe looked like, come to Duvshanit.

Located on Hapalmach street, this bakery and light-fare cafe has not been altered since Levi Eshkol was prime minister. It opened in 1970 and has not been updated since. I am not kidding. Its decor is plain, spartan and a few knick-knacks adorn the walls to remind you of yesteryear. Always longing for nostalgia, Bibi frequents the place for their cakes and their politics. (Not kidding on either).

The real claim to fame for this cafe and why it holds a special place on my palate is because Duvshanit - which means small cherry - specializes in fresh fruit desserts.

Unlike in America, fruits in Israel are seasonal. Apricots and strawberries and plums are not annual delights. They are served when they ripen and in their due season. (Unlike us Americans who manufacture them with additives and can get them whenever we please).

Thus, the dishes at Duvshanit that are most celebrated are special because they are sweets treats particular to a season when the fruit has ripened.

Personally, I am die-hard plum tart guy. I have been known to order a few kilo, flash freeze them, and bring them home to enjoy for Rosh Hashana dinner. Equally good is the apricot, cherry or apple tarts.

The year round chocolate and croissants are tried and true and will not do you wrong.

This is a simple, quaint place to sit and sip on tea or coffee and enjoy a fruity-dessert and people watch. In late July, when the plums are in season, I will be sure to see you there!